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If you can see bare wood or your piece has deep scratches, many water stains or ink marks, you’ll need a full refinish.
“If it comes out looking cleaner, it’s perfectly acceptable to stop there.” Remember to always work in a well-ventilated space. The pros I spoke to recommend the aerosol products sold by Mohawk – more on those below. Instead, try the “scuff and spray” method: Sand lightly with a high-grit sandpaper (at least 400 grit) or a green Scotch-Brite scour pad, then spray on a layer of professional-grade lacquer. If you have a piece with a slightly failing finish (think dull coloring and only the lightest scuffs and scratches), you might not need a full refinishing. While there are many tricks and hacks out there for taking care of water rings, Kennedy advises avoiding “home remedies.”
Move your piece to a well-ventilated space, such as the garage, and apply a few light coats of the spray to remove the white moisture marks – no additional finishing required. If watermarks are your only problem, Gendron suggests Mohawk’s Super Blush Retarder aerosol spray as a quick fix, calling it “the industry secret everyone who owns wood furniture needs to know.” While a spindle chair might seem less daunting than a dresser, the large, flat surfaces of a dresser will be easier to tackle than the nooks and crannies of the chair. If you’re embarking on your first project, you’ll also want to avoid pieces with a lot of tiny corners. Staining maple, Duffy said, is “a nightmare” – which was my cue to take my maple dining chairs to a professional. Kennedy said that American-made walnut pieces are easy to work on, while Danish teak is more delicate, so you’ll need to be extra careful not to sand through the veneer. The type and style of wood will also determine how beginner-friendly the project is. Likewise if you’re dealing with something rare by a well-known designer – say, an Eames molded plywood lounge chair. “If you want the best possible job and it really means a lot to you, then I would hire a professional,” Kennedy said.
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Professional help may also be worthwhile if the piece is an heirloom. Anything with issues beyond the finish, such as heavy water damage, missing veneer or significant deterioration – for instance, if a dog chewed off a portion of a leg – should be handled by a pro, said Bob Kennedy, who teaches refinishing techniques via a subscription Facebook group and co-owns Atomic Age Modern in Mesa, Arizona. There are some refinishing projects for which you will always want to tap an expert. So, based on guidance from vintage furniture experts, here’s what is – and is not – worth trying yourself. Some repairs are straightforward, while others are much more intensive. Still others cautioned about the delicate skills and toxic chemicals involved: “I would recommend people pay someone else to do it,” Nicole Gendron, who runs a Massachusetts business refinishing and selling midcentury pieces, said in an email.īut just as these responses varied, so, too, does the complexity of refinishing jobs. “Anyone who is willing to put in the time to learn about the process, and practice and perfect the techniques can get a good result,” said Mary Duffy, who runs Maine Mid Century in York County, Maine. When I asked pros whether refinishing wood midcentury furniture was doable for a novice, I got mixed replies. But then I wondered: Could I do it myself? These chairs were not fine antiques after all. The estimates they gave were so high that I considered giving up and buying something new. The lacquer was chipping away from my midcentury modern dining chairs – one of which also had a wobbly leg – when I contacted two refinishers to inquire about a makeover.
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